John Jay Papers

Maria Jay Banyer to Peter Augustus Jay, 27[–28] June 1821

Maria Jay Banyer to Peter Augustus Jay

Canandaiggua, 27th.[–28] June 1821

My dear Brother

You will be happy to hear that we have arrived safe so far on our tour & that we have had a delightful journey—1 I will now give you a hasty sketch of our route from Utica— we left it after church in the afternoon & rode thro’ a very beautiful Country resembling in its villages the finest parts of Connecticut to Vernon— the next afternoon we proceeded thro’ the Oneida reservation to the Canal— We saw with pleasure a very neat Episcopal Church built for the Indians & were told they formed a large & apparently devout Congregation—2 At 4 we embarked on the Canal; the weather was intensely hot but at at Sun set the scene became very pleasing— it was indeed perfectly novel— the Canal is 40 ft. wide & 4 deep the boat was a very neat one about 70 feet long drawn by 2 horses we glided along very gently at the rate of 4 miles an hour thro’ enormous forests, never before had I seen trees of such a height, the frequent bridges thrown over the Canal & at intervals fields of grain &c enlivened the prospect— we passed thro’ several Locks during the night which by the light of Lamps was rather gloomy— our births were very comfortable but the striking of the boat in passing under the Bridges made it impossible to sleep—indeed want of sleep has been my greatest evil since leaving home— We left the Canal 8 miles from Auburn & dined at that village— The State Prison erected there is a stupendous building—but it is melancholy to reflect on the vice that renders such a building necessary—3 Auburn is a flourishing village— we went on to Geneva in the afternoon & were highly delighted with the view of Cayuga Lake which we crossed over a bridge 1¼ miles long— it seemed like enchantment after riding such a distance thro’ an inland Country to see such an immense sheet of water with a Steam-boat upon it—4 we did not arrive at Geneva until some time after dark which we regretted extremely as the road for several miles was on the Margin of the Lake— This village is beautifully situated—& ornamented with Shrubbery & fine Gardens abounding with Peach cherry & plum trees— grapes too flourish very well, as indeed does every thing else. there cannot be a more luxuriant country— 28th. Bloomfield. It was impossible to write more yesterday & I will finish my letter while we are waiting for breakfast— Canandaigua is the most beautiful Country town I have ever seen tho’ not as finely situated as Geneva, being at a short distance from the Lake— I had formed no idea of this Country, its improvement is wonderful— I never saw finer farms than this morning & passed a larger Peach orchard than we have ever seen in Westchester— We have had excellent Post Coaches the whole route except going to & from the Canal—but have this morning had one better than all the rest— we find fresh lemons at almost every Tavern & going into a shop here for a trifle I wanted was surprised to see French silk shoes— if such is the case when every thing must be brought 200 miles by Land what will be the luxury of the Country when the Canal is completed?5 the fertility of the Land is astonishing & the views beautiful—but I can hardly get a moment to write— Adieu I long to see you all my love to dear Mary & the Children— to-morrow night we expect to reach Buffaloe— We have been greatly blessed, preserved from every accident, & have had delightful weather— Your ever affectte. Sister

Maria Banyer

ALS, NNC (EJ: 11604). Addressed: “Peter Augustus Jay Esqr— / corner of Walker St. & Broadway / New York—”. Note: “Caledonia / June 28 / 18.” Endorsed: “… the Canal.”

1JJ’s daughter and her party of “cousins” (probably McVickers) followed what was becoming a standard tourist route through Upstate New York, the Erie Canal route to Niagara Falls. The post coaches and canal and river boats traversed the route from New York City to the tourist destination of Canandaigua, in eight days. See MJB to JJ, 19 June 1821, above. See also Will B. Mackintosh, Selling the Sights: The Invention of the Tourist in American Culture (New York, 2019).

2Bishop Hobart consecrated St. Peter’s Church in Oneida Castle, Oneida County, on 21 Sept. 1819. Eleazar Williams presided as “instructor,” officiating “in the Mohawk language.” Williams was “a young man of Indian extraction, a candidate for Holy Orders” as well as “a Schoolmaster among the Indians” through 1822 who became a Deacon and subsequently migrated with the Oneida to Green Bay in 1826. See Journals of the conventions of the Protestant Episcopal Church in the Diocese of New York, nos. 1–34 (1785–1819), 452; no. 37 (1822), 72; and no. 41 (1826), 18, 25.

3Auburn Prison opened in 1817. See Eileen McHugh, Auburn Correctional Facility (Charleston, 2010), 8.

4The Cayuga Steamboat Company was formed on 15 Dec. 1819. The steam machinery was made in Jersey City, possibly by Fulton Foundry or John Stevens, and hauled overland to Cayuga Lake. The Enterprise was launched in May 1820. See Charles C. Inshaw, “Steamboating on the Finger Lakes,” New York History 23 (July 1942), 8.

5The canal was completed on 26 Oct. 1825. See Roy G. Finch, The Story of the New York State Canals: Historical and Commercial Information ([Albany], 1998), 7.

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